Rolled hem on pleated dress

This dress needed to be hemmed 2”. I was unsure how to do it at first, as the pleats and fabric type made it complicated. Eventually, I figured it out. Below are the machine settings I used to hem this dress, as well as some other information about the garment.

Fabric: Pleated 100% polyester crepe. Very minimal stretch but some give. Soft and drapey. Able to be ironed and steamed without burning or melting.

Machine: Brother 1034D serger

Stitch: Napkin rolled hem. Lower looper slightly less tension than recommended.

Serger settings:

  • Left needle: 4
  • Right needle: 4
  • Upper looper: 4
  • Lower looper: 6.5
  • Remove stitch finger: Yes
  • Differential: 0.7
  • Stitch length: 2.0-3.0
  • Stitch width: 6

Additional notes: Cut dress to desired length before hemming, then trimmed additional 1/8” with machine. Used all-purpose thread. Fed fabric through machine without pulling, as holding it taught resulted in an unwanted lettuce effect. Pleats along bottom had to be re-ironed and steamed after hem was finished to maintain crisp look.

Rolled hem on pleated dress
Finished rolled hem on pleated dress

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